Sonamarg-Meadow of Gold

Sonamarg Valley

If Gulmarg and Sonamarg makes you feel warm and fuzzy, Sonamarg is exactly the opposite. Don’t take me wrong, the beauty of Sonamarg is indeed breath-taking, but the grandiosity of the snow mountains make you feel like a Lilliput, someone without any power.

The changing weather further adds to the mystery of ‘what’s next?’ The Sindh River cutting across the Sindh valley brings glamour to this hill station. Sonamarg is a contrasting beauty; green meadows on the banks of the Sindh River and the cold rustic mountains leading to Kargil.

Instead of following the crowd to a snow field, I would advise you to rent a guide and ask him to take you some place which is less commercial. Yes, I particularly stress on hiring a guide because snow is dangerous (partly because there are melting glaciers). If you fall and cut yourself, you can bleed to death before any help arrives. There is also a trekking route that you can take that reaches the Pahalgam Valley. The trek is strenuous and the weather conditions determine whether you can trek that route.

I would suggest an overnight stay at Sonamarg valley. Once the one day tourists leave, the place becomes quiet and it reveals true beauty to its night audience. The Sonamarg market is about 1 km. long. Most of the places serve fabulous food and like I always say, always order what the locals eat!

Baltal Valley

Milestone

A close by excursion is to Baltal, 15 km East of Sonamarg. This little valley lies at the foot of the Zojila. Sonamarg is a silent reminder to mankind that God is the best architect, and the most skilled painter and colour co-ordinator we will ever know. 

Places to Stay

If you are visiting during tourist season, it is advisable to book the hotel in advance (especially if you want to get a cheaper deal). The approximate price is between Rs. 1000 to 7000 per night.

Day Trip Pricing

Big Car: Rs. 3200/-

Small Car: Rs. 2800/-

Next Destination

If you have planned only Kashmir for your trip, then it is wise to visit Sonamarg before or after Pehelgam instead of returning to Srinagar.

If you are going to Leh, then halt at Sonamarg for the night and head to Kargil via the Zojila Pass. The Zojila Pass is temperamental and it is open depending on the weather conditions. 

‘Love’ in Kashmir

 “People travel to faraway places to watch, in fascination, the kind of people they ignore at home.”
– Dagobert D. Runes

              

When someone says Kashmir, the first word that usually pops up in our head is ‘war’; but when you are in Kashmir, all you can think of is ‘love’. Kashmir is that perfect Bollywood set where the lead pair romances; the snow covered mountains of Gulmarg, the green meadows laden with flowers and tall pine trees in Pahalgam, the rustic and golden valleys of Sonmarg and the captivating beauty of the Dal Lake in a shikhara.

My schedule for the day was a one day trip to Pahalgam. So I hired a car, and Mr Akram (the driver) was supposed to be my company for the day. I love nothing more than to talk to the local people, and understand the cities local dynamics. Not everyone in Kashmir is at the LOC!

So, the trip started with short conversations about Kashmir and Mumbai (which is where I reside). He said that tourism in Kashmir has gone up and that he has been taking trips almost every day to the hill stations. So, as soon as I mentioned Mumbai, we spoke about Bollywood and how there are no cinema halls in Kashmir. Apparently, when the army took over during the war, they seized all the cinema halls and bars in Kashmir and used it for refuge (Fascinating, eh?). The short bursts of conversations continued throughout the journey.

Finding Love

Akram was in his late 40s, he wore rimless spectacles and had a very cool sense of dressing. He had a small paunch, and spoke in refined English. You could mistake him for a city man. After a day well spent in Pahalgam, it was time to return.  On our way back, the short bursts of conversations transformed into a long story telling and fascinating conversation.

Akram: “Are you married?”

Me: “No. What about you?”

Akram: “Aah yes I am married. I have a beautiful wife and three children.”

Me: “Oh! That’s nice. Arranged marriage?”

Akram: “Yes, it was…that’s how most of the time it works. But well there are always exceptions.” After a short pause, he continued. Well most Kashmiris, around 70%, earn their livelihood from the tourism industry. Kashmir attracts a lot of foreign tourists who come here and stay for months sometimes.

Me: “Ahan!” (trying to understand the shift in the conversation but I had a feeling it was building an interesting plot)

Akram: “Well most of them come here for winter sports, and some come here to spend the summer. I have been driving since the 1980s, and I have met so many foreigners. They fall in love when they come here.”

Me: “Fall in love? You mean with the beauty of Kashmir?”

Akram (smirks): “Well ya, (chortles) and also with the Kashmiris!”

Me (amused): “Oh really!”

Akram: “Foreigners have a romanticised notion about Indian men. They have a perception of India as the land of finding true love, spirituality and good looking Indian men. The Indian men, like you know, love the attention they get from foreigners. And a Kashmiri guy always knows how to woo a woman. They show a lot of respect and they praise them to death.” He continued after a short pause.

“This happened to a lot of my friends who used to drive foreign tourists around. They used to fall in love with the woman or make them fall in love with them and then marry them in India. The woman used to go back to their country and used to send the men their visa. Some of my friends used to go and then divorce the women, while some men just took the visa, and never returned their phone call.”

Me: “Are you serious?”

Akram: “Yes, you see Kashmiris are not rich people, and the power of the dollar speaks to them. They want to take the easy way out, and what better way than this. And madam, this happens till date! I can easily give you names of ten boys who have got married to firangis. This pattern is mostly seen with the men. Kashmiri women are too protected by their fathers and brothers.”

Me (hesitantly): “So, well did you ever fall in love with one?”

Akram (after a silent pause): “Well yes I did. Two sisters from South Africa had booked a car with my company. I was supposed to be their guide and driver for a period of 15 days and take them around. I fell in love with the younger sister and she fell in love with me. She was tall, intelligent and very beautiful. She came to Kashmir once every year for three years during the summers. We used to spend an amazing time together. I used to call her from the office phone and sometimes write letters to her. And then one day, she called me up to say that she has got married.

Me: “Oh, that’s bad!”

Akram: “Well yes, I wanted to get married to her, not for the money, and I wanted to get her home to my parents. But you know my parents would never agree! She was not of my religion and not even Indian. After a month, I got engaged. And after a year I fell in love with my wife.

Then after a few years I got a call from her (his South African ex-girlfriend). She said that she was divorced and was a mother to a baby girl. I told her that I had got married too and I was a father to two daughters. And we spoke for a while”

Me: “So are you still in touch with her?”

Akram (hesitantly): “Umm, well yes we are but we are just friends. Whenever she comes down to India with her daughter, I meet her. After a long pause… I love my wife now!”

This conversation made me realise that first love, or for that matter love, is all the same everywhere. Lost love and the dynamics of love in Kashmir had its own angle; Kashmir has its own little secret ‘Love’ story.

“Our battered suitcases were piled on the sidewalk again; we had longer ways to go. But no matter, the road is life.”
– Jack Kerouac

 

 

Pahalgam–The Valley of Shepherds

Pahalgam, the Valley of Shepherds

My bags were packed and I was ready to explore yet another hill station of Kashmir, Pahalgam. When ‘Pahalgam’ translated in English means the ‘valley of shepherds’, is one of the most beautiful places in the world. The ratio of the vast meadows is proportionally equal to that of the pine forest surrounding it. The Lidder River with all its tenacity and gusto, makes a perfect background sound. Pahalgam can make you romanticise for hours, and can even make you a poet.

Reaching Pahalgam

It take around 4 to 5 hours to reach Pahalgam from Srinagar city. You will pass many military schools and training grounds initially, but once you take a turn and see the Lidder river the scenery just gets mesmerising with each passing frame.

On your way, located 64 km from Srinagar and just 7 km from Anantnag is the Sun Temple; that belongs to the era of Pandvas.

Ruins of Sun Temple 

These are the most impressive ancient ruins of Sun temple built by King Lalitaditya Mukhtapida 699-739 AD situated a top a plateau. According to a legend, Surya, the sun god was the l3th child born from a life less egg called Martand to wife of saint Kashyap. The foundation of the temple is said to have been between 370-500AD.
 

Ruins of Sun Temple

Sight Seeing in Pahalgam

 

 

 

 

You can take a one-day trip to Pahalgam or stay overnight. I would really advise you to spend three days there to explore and breathe the place in. Sadly, I did not have the liberty of time, so I could not explore the place on foot but on a mid-size pony. Just like in Gulmarg, the vehicle has to be left in the parking area, and the hill station can be explored on foot or on a pony.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lidder River

 The river is entrancing like I mentioned before, the snow white river rapidly flowing, the horses (without saddles) grazing, the off-and-on site of an unknown colourful bird taking dips in the river and a few people sitting on the rocks with a fishing rod.

Lidder is considered to be one of the most famous places for angling and trout fishing. The department of fisheries supervises the angling to maintain the ecological balance of the species through scientific measures. Anglers can buy or hire the fishing equipment like a rod, reel, flies, net basket or long boots from the shops at Polo view lane, near the Bund Srinagar. The Ghilees can also be arranged from fisheries department or the angler shops.

 

In order to indulge in fishing in Pahalgam, tourists have to obtain a fishing license from the Department of fisheries in Srinagar. If you have hired a car, you can ask the driver to help you obtain the license. The months of April to September are the best season for fishing.

 

Important Tip: There are different rates mentioned on blackboard for the pony rides. You need to choose the one that says Gibran Valley; and tell the pony man that you want to see Baisaran, Betaab Valley, Debbian and Gibran Valley. I recommend this route if you are doing a day trip. The horsemen will mention several other points (to charge more money), but be firm.

If you are staying over then I would also recommend trekking Aru Valley and visiting one of the grandiose waterfall (check with the horsemen). If you wish to visit it on foot, which is best recommended, take a guide along from the bazaar so that you do not get lost. 

Baisaran

Baisaran is 3 kms from Pahalgam, and marks the beginning of a beautiful journey forward.

Betaab Valley





 

 

For all the Bollywood buffs, Betaab Valley needs no introduction; it is where Sunny Deol and Amrita Rao danced in the meadows and rode horses.



Betaab Valley



The top view of Betaab Valley looks like a painting in motion. The tall pine trees, the curving river cutting through the mountains and large patches of meadows, makes your whole existence, in that very moment, surreal.

 

Debbian

In about 10 minutes, you will see a rectangular cement-like structure, with railings around it. My horsemen very excitedly said, “This is Debbian”. I inquired further in Hindi, “Okay, so what’s the story?”

Debbian - Spot where Hari Singh fought with the Lion

With a lot of excitement he said, “Sardar Hari Singh was a great commander-in-chief of the Sikh army. His name spelt terror into the hearts of the Afghans and the Afghan mothers used to silence their crying children saying, “Khamosh bash- Haria raghle (Quiet child, Haria has come!”. He continued adding more drama, “One day the Maharaja asked him to accompany him to a hunt. As they entered the forest, suddenly a lion jumped on him and threw him on the ground. Hari Singh was completely caught unaware and did not even have the opportunity to draw his sword. But he got hold of the jaw of the lion and with great force flung the lion away, and withdrawing his sword, with one blow severed the lion's head.”

With an expression of all-praise for the Hari Singh, he continued, “The Maharaja and the other courtiers were extraordinarily amazed at this feat. From that day onwards Hari Singh was given the appellation of ‘Nalwa’ by the Maharaja, who acknowledged that Hari Singh had killed the lion similar to the way, King Nall used to hunt.”

Gibran Valley

After the much inspired story, I was on my way to Gibran Valley. I expected it to be a replica of the Betaab Valley.

 

The path was magically transforming itself into a hi-fantasy movie like Narnia; the sun was shining bright, peeping through the pine trees. The narrow brown path had different shades of green grass covered with white, yellow and light purple flowers.

 

The perfect climax to this ecstasy is the Gibran Valley.

 

The vastness of the meadow surrounded with thick pine trees at one end, and the deep Himalayan valley on the other. I stood at one point, I don’t know north, south, east or west, but from that point I felt like I was seated on a throne and the world was mine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I could sit there till dusk, but it was time to return.

Mamaleshwar Temple

On your way back to the car parking area, you can visit the Mamaleshwar Temple.

Mamaleshwar Temple

Mamaleshwar Temple is one of the most ancient temples in Pahalgam, with its history dating back to the 12th century. Built by King Jayasimha on the right bank of River Lidder, this temple is devoted to Lord Shiva. The temple encompasses a pedestal and a Shiva Lingam, with a pure water spring covered by a basin.

Tourist Season

Pahalgam is also associated with the annual Amarnath Yatra Chandanwari (2,895 m), 16 km from Pahalgam, is the starting point of the yatra that takes place every year in the month of Sawan (July to August). I would earnestly request you not to visit at that time of the year unless you plan shell out ridiculous amount of money and deal with loud noise. During that time of the year, the beauty of Pahalgam is desiccated to the commercial tourist world.

Occupation

 

 

 

 

Almost 80% of Pahalgam earn through tourism. The Amarnath Yatra is the peak season, where they try to fill their kitty for the entire year. The other 20% are involved in farming and animal husbandry.

 

 

 

Places to Stay

There are quite a few cottages and hotels available to stay; choose a hotel/cottage that fits your budget. An on the spot booking allows you to bargain and get a good deal.

Approximate Price: Rs. 1200 to Rs. 4000 per person (depending on the choice of stay), for one night.

Day Trip Pricing

Big Car: Rs. 3200/-

Small Car: Rs. 2800/-

Pony Ride to Gibran Valley and Back: Rs. 1200-1800 (depending on the time you reach and season)

Tip: You do not need a guide if you are on the pony. Make sure you choose a horsemen who likes talking.

Food to Eat

I would recommend vegetarian food. There are many good restaurants in the bazaar, but Daana Paani is one of the best. The ambience and the food is fantastic.