Gulmarg–The Switzerland of India

 

 

"Stand and look, and hold your breath,
A flower valley upon its breast,
The Himalayas against the light sky blue,
Wondrous with Christmas trees,
An avalanche of snow, pinnacles of frozen rain,
Shades of green, and twisted rivers,
O, you take my breath away, beautiful Gulmarg!"

 
                                       - Khushnum Y. Mistry

 

What I find most difficult is to find the right adjectives for the hill stations of Kashmir. Gulmarg, popularly known as mini-Switzerland (mostly, because many winter sports are played there), is one of the most visited destination in Kashmir. The bright green meadows, tall Christmassy trees and snowcapped mountains paint a picture of happiness in your mind and soul. If you love and appreciate nature, your eyes will twinkle by the mere sight and your mind will be lost in the beauty and serenity of this hillstation.

Reaching Gulmarg

It takes around 2-3 hours to reach Gulmarg from Srinagar city. I would recommend leaving early to avoid traffic and tourists. On the way you will pass Lal Chowk, which is the hustling bustling market of Srinagar city. Before approaching, you will pass another hillstation, Tanmarg which is rarely visited by tourists or travellers. If you are visiting when there is snow, it is advisable to rent clothes to avoid your clothes getting dirty.

Panorama from Gulmarg View Point
(Just before entering Gulmarg)

The main peak in Gulmarg is Affarwat which is 4143m. Once you reach there you need to park your vehicle. Note that if you have planned an overnight stay in Gulmarg, you can take your vehicle to the hotel directly.

 

Sightseeing in Gulmarg

 

 

Gulmarg is a beautiful hill station that can be explored on foot. The changing weather, the people, the snowy landscape and then a dash of green meadows, Gulmarg seems like paradise. I have travelled half of India, been to many places abroad but the beauty of Gulmarg; the tall Himalayan snow mountains are a sight to sore eyes.

Tip: If you have planned Gulmarg as a day-return trip, I would suggest hiring a pony to explore the hill station.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Golf Course/Ice Hockey Rink:

In winter Gulmarg’s natural slopes and inclines, makes it India’s premier skiing resort; also offering winter sports like golf, ice hockey and heliskiing. I was intrigued and proud that Gulmarg has the world’s highest golf course. It is 18 holed & has a par of 72.

World's Highest Golf Course

 

Ice Hockey Rink

On your way to Khilanmarg, you will pass the High Altitude Warfare School and the Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering.

High Altitude Warfare School
To know more, click http://www.indianmemoryproject.com/tag/high-altitude-warfare-school/

 

Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering
To know more, click http://iismgulmarg.com/

 

Gondola



Image copied from http://gulmarggondola.com/about_gondola.php

The Gondola ride is 2 km to 3 km from the parking area (walking distance). Sadly, the Gondola was not operational when I visited Gulmarg, albeit I found out all the information for my blog readers. Collect your tickets from Gondola station; there are two levels: Gulmarg to Kungdoor and Kungdoor to Aparwath.

To know more or pre-book, visit http://gulmarggondola.com/gondola_tickets.php

Khilanmarg:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The path to Khilanmarg from the Gondola gate is charismatic. I felt like I was swallowed up by a jungle of Christmas trees, carpeted with snow.

Small twigs, branches and colourful flowers spruced between the snow carpet, to drive away the boredom of white.

 

 Along its length, the icy waterfall ran vigorously down the slopes, like a herd of white horses running towards a certain point.

 

              

 
You could just sit there and watch the broken log getting drenched at the bottom but holding its place, so that the humans could cross the currents of the cold icy waterfall.

 

 
 

When you reach the main Khilanmarg point, you will be approached by Ski instructors claiming to teach you skiing in 10 minutes (it’s impossible, unless you have done it before and polishing your skills), and after much convincing will ask you to pay some amount to click pictures wearing the equipment to deceive your friends (yes, and you will be surprised that it works; society and the show-sha *argh*) on Facebook or Watsapp.

Prepping the Sledge before Zorbing

You will also be approached by sledge rides (no, not by a Santa Clause). Be sure to bargain to get a good deal. Also, only opt for a sledge ride if there is snow (I sloped on snow and muck which was not much fun). After the much exhilarating sledge ride, the ponies wait for you at the bottom of the Khilanmarg slope.

Strawberry Farm

Strawberry Farm

Now, it’s time to complete the circuit, so you start to retreat from a different point. While, coming back you can see the strawberry farm (the locals, call it strawberry garden). During season time, that is, around November-December, you can pay a sum of Rs. 20/- and taste the local produce as much as you like (but you cannot carry them in a bag or stock for later).

 

Children’s Park

 

 

 

The children’s park is like a huge meadow with a few small streams and foot bridges. It’s just overall captivating to an eye of a metro city breed. A park that looks like a meadow, with such scenic beauty is beyond imagination for any Mumbaikar.

Shiv Mandir

Shiv Mandir

For Hindu devotees, a Shiv Mandir built in 1915 by Maharaja Hari Singh’s wife, stands tall on a hillock, in the main Bazaar (or parking area). For all the Bollywood fans, this is the same temple where the song “Jai, jai shiv Shankar, kaanta lage na kankar” starring Rajesh Khanna and Mumtaz was picturised.

Tourism in Gulmarg

O' Let This Beauty Stay

Gulmarg is a natural beauty that doesn’t need to adopt the ways of the tourist or to attract them. But there should be a number of cars that should be allowed to enter Gulmarg. Over the years, because of tourists and the increasing number of cars (with no PUC done or no strict law enforced on tourists cars to make sure they have their PUC) there has been a rapid change in the weather conditions; the snow is melting rather quickly, which has a great impact on the ecosystem in Kashmir.

It’s quite depressing to see tourists littering such a beautiful heavenly place. Read more: http://www.greaterkashmir.com/news/2014/May/20/garbage-is-added-attraction-at-gulmarg--11.asp

Keep it Clean, Keep it Green

Lastly, the quoting of increased prices during season time for Pony rides, Gondola tickets, snow wear, sledge rides and skiing equipment does pinch the pocket of a traveller. It feels like they judge you on appearance and quote an amount that they think you will cough up.

The tourism in Gulmarg should be supervised and strict penalties should be applied by the government to ensure that the place stays clean and beautiful for the generations to come.

Places to Stay

 

There are quite a few cottages and hotels available to stay. If you wish to stay there I would advise you to reach Gulmarg by 8 am to choose a hotel/cottage that fits your budget. An on the spot booking allows you to bargain and get a good deal.

Approximate Price: Rs. 1500 to Rs. 8000 per person (depending on the choice of stay), for one night.

Day Trip Pricing

• Big Car: Rs. 2500/- ; Small Car: Rs. 2000/-

• Toll to enter Gulmarg: Rs. 30/-

• Snow Wear (includes a coat and gumboots: Approx. Rs. 300-500 (depending on the time you reach and season) Tip: Gumboots are extremely necessary if there is snow (it just saves your shoes from the muck and it’s much easier to walk on snow)

• Pony Ride to Khilanmarg and Back: Rs. 1200-1800 (depending on the time you reach and season) Tip: If you do not wish to visit Khilanmarg and only go for the Gondola Ride, do not hire a pony.

• Gondola Tickets: Rs. 600-800 (depending on season time and the number of tourists)

• Guide: Rs. 500-1000 (depending on the time you reach and season
• Zorbing: Rs. 500-1000 (depending upon the season)

Grazing

 

Food to Eat



 

Before you reach Khilanmarg, there are a number of temporary tents that serve food. You get hot spicy Maggi and amazing Kahwa (it makes you feel so warm).
 

There are a number of restaurants in the Bazaar, that serve vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. I would suggest to go for vegetarian food because it tastes much better (and is freshly made). 

 

The Perfect Storm

“It is not light that we need, but fire; it is not the gentle shower, but thunder. We need the storm, the whirlwind, and the earthquake.” 

-Frederick Douglass 

Humans don’t seem to understand the power of nature. We forget that we are small ant like creatures, when compared to the Universe, and yet we claim to be the Dominant. Humans think that they can become the new architects of the world; build a few a dams here, construct new factories to make some deadly products (in the name of development), consume, consume and consume more, deplete the earth of all its natural elements ,and think nature will cope. I think a perfect storm is just the right way to awaken human sensibilities (from God's point of view).

For most, a thunder storms could be a scary thing, but I enjoy God’s wrath. I find solace in thundering noises, rough winds and the magical colours nature paints on its canvas; the Universe. If you ever ask a Kashmiri about the weather there, you would get an analogous response, “Kashmir ka mausam aur biwi ka mood koi predict nahi kar sakta” (The weather of Kashmir and a wife’s mood can never be predicted). And I  actually realized the statement after I witnessed the perfect storm one evening in Srinagar.
 

I was sitting on the stairs of my houseboat after a nice warm bath and a long day sipping Kahwa and eating pakodas when the theatricals of the perfect fifteen minutes thunderstorm started.

The Calm Before the Storm

Rough Winds and a Drizzle - The Storm Approaches

 

The Perfect Thunderstorm - The dark clouds get closer to envelop the sun

Rain

Ray of Sunshine

Clouds and Rain Go Away

Pretense-Just Another Evening

Open Skies and Sunset

The End of Day

The Dawn of Night

 

Srinagar City Tour - Part 1

A one day Srinagar city tour is indeed the best way to experience the pulse, beauty and its ever changing frames. Just like a there are two sides to a coin, the new Srinagar is the commercial beauty and old Srinagar is filled with the richness of the Mughal empire history and ancient architecture. I would strongly advise you to start the city tour by 8 am to avoid traffic.


The Quieter Side of Dal Lake

 

Shankaracharya Temple

The ancient Sankaracharya Temple, also known as the Jyesteswara Temple, is found on top of the hill Takht-i-Sulaiman or Throne of Solomon, at the height of 350m. Overlooking the lake, Adi Shankaracharya (788-820AC) lived, meditated and did Tapas (penance) here to review Hinduism which had been eclipsed by Buddhism.

To read more, click on http://www.mukti4u2.dk/Srinagar_Shankaracharya_Temple.htm

City View from Shankaracharya Temple

The car takes you only up to a certain point, after which you need to climb 40 stairs to enter the temple premises. 
 

This image is taken from postcards and copied from
http://www.mukti4u2.dk/Srinagar_Shankaracharya_Temple.htm

The temple is completely built of stone, and as the sun’s ray hit, it shines like granite. A huge Shivling (a black stone considered to be a Hindu deity) with a huge bronze snake encircling it is grounded in the middle of this temple. At a time, this temple can only occupy 6 people and a pujari (priest).

During the olden times, this place would be the best place to meditate, pray or simply enjoy the beauty of the city. Photography is not allowed here, so leave your cameras and cell phones in the car or else you will need to deposit them outside the temple!

Distance: 20 minutes from Dal Lake, Gate No. 1
Entry Fee: Free

Chasme Shahi

Chasme Shahi

‘Chasme’ in Kashmiri means ‘water’ and ‘Shahi’ means ‘royal’ which is a great way of describing one of the oldest hot water spring found in Srinagar. On entering the Chasme Shahi, you are welcomed to a beautiful lawn with colourful flowers.

Fountains and Gardens in Chasme Shahi

In the centre of this garden, is a small stone funnel from where the hot water springs flow. Hot water springs are rich in chlorides that cure ailments like rheumatism, post and pre-operative surgeries and problems with the central nervous system. 

The Royal Water Tomb

Hot Water Spring

Chasmr Shahi

Distance: 20 minutes from Chasme Shahi

Entry fee: Rs. 10/-

Botanical Garden

Although, the botanical garden is beautiful with lots of flowers and custom shaped trees, it can be given a miss!

Distance: 5 minutes from Chasme Shahi

Entry Fee: Rs. 10/-

Pari Mahal 

Most tourists call it Pari Mahal, whereas the locals call it ‘Peer Mahal’. This palace could definitely be passed off as a residing abode for fairies.

The gardens were established by Prince Dara Shikoh in the mid-1600s on the ruins of a Buddhist monastery. Dara, the son of Emperor Shah Jahan, followed the Qadiri order of Sufi Islam and made the garden for his tutor. It was further used as an observatory, useful for teaching astrology and astronomy.

There are six ascending terraces at Pari Mahal, which display unique architectural elements of the mid-seventeenth century. 

Distance: 20 minutes from the Botanical Gardens

Entry fee: Rs. 10/-

Nishat Bagh

Nishat Bagh is a very average garden for the kids to play and can be definitely skipped. 

Shalimar Bagh 

Shalimar Bagh is considered to be the finest Mughal-style hill garden and was made by the Mughal Emperor Jahangir in 1619 for his beloved wife, Nurjahan. The Shalimar Bagh was built not merely as garden but also served as the summer residence of the Mughals.

The water canals and fountains are lined up parallel bordered with beautiful scented flowers and old architecture transports you to the Mughal era.  

There are four main areas or shamianas or terraces, the lower one is connected to the road. The second is considered to be the public garden also called as the Hall of the Public Audience. This area still has a small black marble throne.

The Second Area also called Hall of the Public

Black Marble Stone

The third area is wider with two shallow terraces with the Hall of Private Audience.

View from the Hall of the Private Audience

                     

The fourth terrace area is the Zenana Garden that was reserved for the royal ladies of the court with small guard-rooms on the entrance. This part of the garden is definitely the most beautiful.

The Shalimar Bagh forms an ideal picture perfect sight; the water dancing, the flowers adding vibrancy to the already  cheerful atmosphere and your mind just soaking it all in!

Distance: 20 minutes from the Botanical Gardens

Entry fee: Rs. 15/-

Continue to Srinagar City Tour - Part 2...