Gulmarg–The Switzerland of India

 

 

"Stand and look, and hold your breath,
A flower valley upon its breast,
The Himalayas against the light sky blue,
Wondrous with Christmas trees,
An avalanche of snow, pinnacles of frozen rain,
Shades of green, and twisted rivers,
O, you take my breath away, beautiful Gulmarg!"

 
                                       - Khushnum Y. Mistry

 

What I find most difficult is to find the right adjectives for the hill stations of Kashmir. Gulmarg, popularly known as mini-Switzerland (mostly, because many winter sports are played there), is one of the most visited destination in Kashmir. The bright green meadows, tall Christmassy trees and snowcapped mountains paint a picture of happiness in your mind and soul. If you love and appreciate nature, your eyes will twinkle by the mere sight and your mind will be lost in the beauty and serenity of this hillstation.

Reaching Gulmarg

It takes around 2-3 hours to reach Gulmarg from Srinagar city. I would recommend leaving early to avoid traffic and tourists. On the way you will pass Lal Chowk, which is the hustling bustling market of Srinagar city. Before approaching, you will pass another hillstation, Tanmarg which is rarely visited by tourists or travellers. If you are visiting when there is snow, it is advisable to rent clothes to avoid your clothes getting dirty.

Panorama from Gulmarg View Point
(Just before entering Gulmarg)

The main peak in Gulmarg is Affarwat which is 4143m. Once you reach there you need to park your vehicle. Note that if you have planned an overnight stay in Gulmarg, you can take your vehicle to the hotel directly.

 

Sightseeing in Gulmarg

 

 

Gulmarg is a beautiful hill station that can be explored on foot. The changing weather, the people, the snowy landscape and then a dash of green meadows, Gulmarg seems like paradise. I have travelled half of India, been to many places abroad but the beauty of Gulmarg; the tall Himalayan snow mountains are a sight to sore eyes.

Tip: If you have planned Gulmarg as a day-return trip, I would suggest hiring a pony to explore the hill station.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Golf Course/Ice Hockey Rink:

In winter Gulmarg’s natural slopes and inclines, makes it India’s premier skiing resort; also offering winter sports like golf, ice hockey and heliskiing. I was intrigued and proud that Gulmarg has the world’s highest golf course. It is 18 holed & has a par of 72.

World's Highest Golf Course

 

Ice Hockey Rink

On your way to Khilanmarg, you will pass the High Altitude Warfare School and the Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering.

High Altitude Warfare School
To know more, click http://www.indianmemoryproject.com/tag/high-altitude-warfare-school/

 

Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering
To know more, click http://iismgulmarg.com/

 

Gondola



Image copied from http://gulmarggondola.com/about_gondola.php

The Gondola ride is 2 km to 3 km from the parking area (walking distance). Sadly, the Gondola was not operational when I visited Gulmarg, albeit I found out all the information for my blog readers. Collect your tickets from Gondola station; there are two levels: Gulmarg to Kungdoor and Kungdoor to Aparwath.

To know more or pre-book, visit http://gulmarggondola.com/gondola_tickets.php

Khilanmarg:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The path to Khilanmarg from the Gondola gate is charismatic. I felt like I was swallowed up by a jungle of Christmas trees, carpeted with snow.

Small twigs, branches and colourful flowers spruced between the snow carpet, to drive away the boredom of white.

 

 Along its length, the icy waterfall ran vigorously down the slopes, like a herd of white horses running towards a certain point.

 

              

 
You could just sit there and watch the broken log getting drenched at the bottom but holding its place, so that the humans could cross the currents of the cold icy waterfall.

 

 
 

When you reach the main Khilanmarg point, you will be approached by Ski instructors claiming to teach you skiing in 10 minutes (it’s impossible, unless you have done it before and polishing your skills), and after much convincing will ask you to pay some amount to click pictures wearing the equipment to deceive your friends (yes, and you will be surprised that it works; society and the show-sha *argh*) on Facebook or Watsapp.

Prepping the Sledge before Zorbing

You will also be approached by sledge rides (no, not by a Santa Clause). Be sure to bargain to get a good deal. Also, only opt for a sledge ride if there is snow (I sloped on snow and muck which was not much fun). After the much exhilarating sledge ride, the ponies wait for you at the bottom of the Khilanmarg slope.

Strawberry Farm

Strawberry Farm

Now, it’s time to complete the circuit, so you start to retreat from a different point. While, coming back you can see the strawberry farm (the locals, call it strawberry garden). During season time, that is, around November-December, you can pay a sum of Rs. 20/- and taste the local produce as much as you like (but you cannot carry them in a bag or stock for later).

 

Children’s Park

 

 

 

The children’s park is like a huge meadow with a few small streams and foot bridges. It’s just overall captivating to an eye of a metro city breed. A park that looks like a meadow, with such scenic beauty is beyond imagination for any Mumbaikar.

Shiv Mandir

Shiv Mandir

For Hindu devotees, a Shiv Mandir built in 1915 by Maharaja Hari Singh’s wife, stands tall on a hillock, in the main Bazaar (or parking area). For all the Bollywood fans, this is the same temple where the song “Jai, jai shiv Shankar, kaanta lage na kankar” starring Rajesh Khanna and Mumtaz was picturised.

Tourism in Gulmarg

O' Let This Beauty Stay

Gulmarg is a natural beauty that doesn’t need to adopt the ways of the tourist or to attract them. But there should be a number of cars that should be allowed to enter Gulmarg. Over the years, because of tourists and the increasing number of cars (with no PUC done or no strict law enforced on tourists cars to make sure they have their PUC) there has been a rapid change in the weather conditions; the snow is melting rather quickly, which has a great impact on the ecosystem in Kashmir.

It’s quite depressing to see tourists littering such a beautiful heavenly place. Read more: http://www.greaterkashmir.com/news/2014/May/20/garbage-is-added-attraction-at-gulmarg--11.asp

Keep it Clean, Keep it Green

Lastly, the quoting of increased prices during season time for Pony rides, Gondola tickets, snow wear, sledge rides and skiing equipment does pinch the pocket of a traveller. It feels like they judge you on appearance and quote an amount that they think you will cough up.

The tourism in Gulmarg should be supervised and strict penalties should be applied by the government to ensure that the place stays clean and beautiful for the generations to come.

Places to Stay

 

There are quite a few cottages and hotels available to stay. If you wish to stay there I would advise you to reach Gulmarg by 8 am to choose a hotel/cottage that fits your budget. An on the spot booking allows you to bargain and get a good deal.

Approximate Price: Rs. 1500 to Rs. 8000 per person (depending on the choice of stay), for one night.

Day Trip Pricing

• Big Car: Rs. 2500/- ; Small Car: Rs. 2000/-

• Toll to enter Gulmarg: Rs. 30/-

• Snow Wear (includes a coat and gumboots: Approx. Rs. 300-500 (depending on the time you reach and season) Tip: Gumboots are extremely necessary if there is snow (it just saves your shoes from the muck and it’s much easier to walk on snow)

• Pony Ride to Khilanmarg and Back: Rs. 1200-1800 (depending on the time you reach and season) Tip: If you do not wish to visit Khilanmarg and only go for the Gondola Ride, do not hire a pony.

• Gondola Tickets: Rs. 600-800 (depending on season time and the number of tourists)

• Guide: Rs. 500-1000 (depending on the time you reach and season
• Zorbing: Rs. 500-1000 (depending upon the season)

Grazing

 

Food to Eat



 

Before you reach Khilanmarg, there are a number of temporary tents that serve food. You get hot spicy Maggi and amazing Kahwa (it makes you feel so warm).
 

There are a number of restaurants in the Bazaar, that serve vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. I would suggest to go for vegetarian food because it tastes much better (and is freshly made). 

 

The Perfect Storm

“It is not light that we need, but fire; it is not the gentle shower, but thunder. We need the storm, the whirlwind, and the earthquake.” 

-Frederick Douglass 

Humans don’t seem to understand the power of nature. We forget that we are small ant like creatures, when compared to the Universe, and yet we claim to be the Dominant. Humans think that they can become the new architects of the world; build a few a dams here, construct new factories to make some deadly products (in the name of development), consume, consume and consume more, deplete the earth of all its natural elements ,and think nature will cope. I think a perfect storm is just the right way to awaken human sensibilities (from God's point of view).

For most, a thunder storms could be a scary thing, but I enjoy God’s wrath. I find solace in thundering noises, rough winds and the magical colours nature paints on its canvas; the Universe. If you ever ask a Kashmiri about the weather there, you would get an analogous response, “Kashmir ka mausam aur biwi ka mood koi predict nahi kar sakta” (The weather of Kashmir and a wife’s mood can never be predicted). And I  actually realized the statement after I witnessed the perfect storm one evening in Srinagar.
 

I was sitting on the stairs of my houseboat after a nice warm bath and a long day sipping Kahwa and eating pakodas when the theatricals of the perfect fifteen minutes thunderstorm started.

The Calm Before the Storm

Rough Winds and a Drizzle - The Storm Approaches

 

The Perfect Thunderstorm - The dark clouds get closer to envelop the sun

Rain

Ray of Sunshine

Clouds and Rain Go Away

Pretense-Just Another Evening

Open Skies and Sunset

The End of Day

The Dawn of Night

 

Srinagar City Tour - Part 2

Hazratbal Shrine



Entrance Hazratbal Shrine

This shrine is a dargah (i.e. a praying place for the Muslims) to offer prayers to Allah. The shrine has to sections, a praying area for the men and the women.

The shrine has a huge garden for the kids to play, and is located at the banks of the Nigeen Lake. You will find a number of sweet shops outside the dargah.

Intricate Marble Work - Hazratbal Shrine

Distance: 30 minutes from Shalimar Bagh
Entry fee: Free

Nigeen Lake and Koh-e-Maran or Hara Parbat

Nigeen Lake

 Before reaching old Srinagar, you will pass Nigeen Lake. You can stop the car on the bridge to enjoy the beauty of the serendipitous lake. The lake is not as commercialized as Dal Lake and has a serene beauty.

Sunset at Nigeen Lake

After passing Nigeen lake, we passed the Koh-e-maran fort before entering the old city of Srinagar. The fort was constructed by Akbar who planned to make it a capital but it never came through.

Koh-e-Maran or Hara Parbat Fort

The brown colour of the fort, against the sun setting, is indeed a breathtaking view. Sadly, tourists are not allowed to visit the fort, so we could only appreciate its beauty from the outside.

To read more about the Koh-e-Maran Fort click on http://www.thekashmirwalla.com/2012/09/the-hari-parbat-fort/#.VEZTQzFxnIU

Distance: 15-20 minutes from Shalimar Bagh

Old Srinagar City

City Architecture

The old city has almost the same chaotic feel of old Delhi or the bylanes of Mumbai. Old Srinagar city has a dense population of Muslims, and it’s exhibited in the city’s architecture (inspired from the old Mughal culture). Most of the houses and buildings are made of bricks with glass windows. The city literally shines during the day.

Distance: 15 minutes from Koh-e-Maran Fort

Jama Masjid

Door Leading to the Jama Masjid

 

 

History of Jama Masjid

The Jama Masjid stands tall in the chaotic juncture of the old Srinagar city. It can occupy more than 5000 worshipers.

 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 











As you enter the first gate of the Masjid, you will see a huge prayer room with almost a 1000 carpets.
 


The Prayer Room

As you enter the second gate, you will see a huge fountain in the middle of a huge garden. This fountain is used for wazu (a practice of washing hands and legs before praying).  
 


Fountain for Wazu

Architectural Beauty

 

 

                                               

 
Distance: 10 minutes after entering Old Srinagar

Srinagar city tour is conducted in a circular circuit. At the end of the day, it leaves you with a distinct taste of the culture, history and diversity of the city. Below are few tips/recommendations while taking this tour:
 

·     If you are visiting Shankaracharya Temple, Chasme Shahi, Botanical Gardens, Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh during tourist season, be ready for a lot of rowdy and stupid (yes, I called them STUPID!) people.

·        Do not take this tour on a Friday as it is an important day for prayers for the Muslims. You will be stuck in a traffic jam and also it is almost impossible to enter Hazratbal Shrine and Jama Masjid.

·        Carry a scarf/handkerchief if you are going to visit a religious place.

·        Do not miss the fresh fruit stalls outside tourist attractions.

·        Ditch the tourist season. The best time to visit Kashmir is in the months of April, October and November.

Cost for Transport:

Rs. 2000/- for a small car (Indica)

Rs. 2500/- for a big car (Innova, Sumo)