Trace My Wandering Steps: Hillstation

Showing posts with label Hillstation. Show all posts

Wednesday, 19 November 2014

Sonamarg-Meadow of Gold

Sonamarg Valley

If Gulmarg and Sonamarg makes you feel warm and fuzzy, Sonamarg is exactly the opposite. Don’t take me wrong, the beauty of Sonamarg is indeed breath-taking, but the grandiosity of the snow mountains make you feel like a Lilliput, someone without any power.

The changing weather further adds to the mystery of ‘what’s next?’ The Sindh River cutting across the Sindh valley brings glamour to this hill station. Sonamarg is a contrasting beauty; green meadows on the banks of the Sindh River and the cold rustic mountains leading to Kargil.

Instead of following the crowd to a snow field, I would advise you to rent a guide and ask him to take you some place which is less commercial. Yes, I particularly stress on hiring a guide because snow is dangerous (partly because there are melting glaciers). If you fall and cut yourself, you can bleed to death before any help arrives. There is also a trekking route that you can take that reaches the Pahalgam Valley. The trek is strenuous and the weather conditions determine whether you can trek that route.

I would suggest an overnight stay at Sonamarg valley. Once the one day tourists leave, the place becomes quiet and it reveals true beauty to its night audience. The Sonamarg market is about 1 km. long. Most of the places serve fabulous food and like I always say, always order what the locals eat!

Baltal Valley

Milestone

A close by excursion is to Baltal, 15 km East of Sonamarg. This little valley lies at the foot of the Zojila. Sonamarg is a silent reminder to mankind that God is the best architect, and the most skilled painter and colour co-ordinator we will ever know.

Places to Stay

If you are visiting during tourist season, it is advisable to book the hotel in advance (especially if you want to get a cheaper deal). The approximate price is between Rs. 1000 to 7000 per night.

Day Trip Pricing

Big Car: Rs. 3200/-

Small Car: Rs. 2800/-

Next Destination

If you have planned only Kashmir for your trip, then it is wise to visit Sonamarg before or after Pehelgam instead of returning to Srinagar.

If you are going to Leh, then halt at Sonamarg for the night and head to Kargil via the Zojila Pass. The Zojila Pass is temperamental and it is open depending on the weather conditions.

Wednesday, 5 November 2014

Pahalgam–The Valley of Shepherds

Pahalgam, the Valley of Shepherds

My bags were packed and I was ready to explore yet another hill station of Kashmir, Pahalgam. When ‘Pahalgam’ translated in English means the ‘valley of shepherds’, is one of the most beautiful places in the world. The ratio of the vast meadows is proportionally equal to that of the pine forest surrounding it. The Lidder River with all its tenacity and gusto, makes a perfect background sound. Pahalgam can make you romanticise for hours, and can even make you a poet.

Reaching Pahalgam

It take around 4 to 5 hours to reach Pahalgam from Srinagar city. You will pass many military schools and training grounds initially, but once you take a turn and see the Lidder river the scenery just gets mesmerising with each passing frame.

On your way, located 64 km from Srinagar and just 7 km from Anantnag is the Sun Temple; that belongs to the era of Pandvas.

Ruins of Sun Temple

These are the most impressive ancient ruins of Sun temple built by King Lalitaditya Mukhtapida 699-739 AD situated a top a plateau. According to a legend, Surya, the sun god was the l3th child born from a life less egg called Martand to wife of saint Kashyap. The foundation of the temple is said to have been between 370-500AD.

Ruins of Sun Temple

Sight Seeing in Pahalgam

You can take a one-day trip to Pahalgam or stay overnight. I would really advise you to spend three days there to explore and breathe the place in. Sadly, I did not have the liberty of time, so I could not explore the place on foot but on a mid-size pony. Just like in Gulmarg, the vehicle has to be left in the parking area, and the hill station can be explored on foot or on a pony.

Lidder River

The river is entrancing like I mentioned before, the snow white river rapidly flowing, the horses (without saddles) grazing, the off-and-on site of an unknown colourful bird taking dips in the river and a few people sitting on the rocks with a fishing rod.

Lidder is considered to be one of the most famous places for angling and trout fishing. The department of fisheries supervises the angling to maintain the ecological balance of the species through scientific measures. Anglers can buy or hire the fishing equipment like a rod, reel, flies, net basket or long boots from the shops at Polo view lane, near the Bund Srinagar. The Ghilees can also be arranged from fisheries department or the angler shops.

In order to indulge in fishing in Pahalgam, tourists have to obtain a fishing license from the Department of fisheries in Srinagar. If you have hired a car, you can ask the driver to help you obtain the license. The months of April to September are the best season for fishing.

Important Tip: There are different rates mentioned on blackboard for the pony rides. You need to choose the one that says Gibran Valley; and tell the pony man that you want to see Baisaran, Betaab Valley, Debbian and Gibran Valley. I recommend this route if you are doing a day trip. The horsemen will mention several other points (to charge more money), but be firm.

If you are staying over then I would also recommend trekking Aru Valley and visiting one of the grandiose waterfall (check with the horsemen). If you wish to visit it on foot, which is best recommended, take a guide along from the bazaar so that you do not get lost.

Baisaran

Baisaran is 3 kms from Pahalgam, and marks the beginning of a beautiful journey forward.

Betaab Valley

For all the Bollywood buffs, Betaab Valley needs no introduction; it is where Sunny Deol and Amrita Rao danced in the meadows and rode horses.

Betaab Valley

The top view of Betaab Valley looks like a painting in motion. The tall pine trees, the curving river cutting through the mountains and large patches of meadows, makes your whole existence, in that very moment, surreal.

Debbian

In about 10 minutes, you will see a rectangular cement-like structure, with railings around it. My horsemen very excitedly said, “This is Debbian”. I inquired further in Hindi, “Okay, so what’s the story?”

Debbian - Spot where Hari Singh fought with the Lion

With a lot of excitement he said, “Sardar Hari Singh was a great commander-in-chief of the Sikh army. His name spelt terror into the hearts of the Afghans and the Afghan mothers used to silence their crying children saying, “Khamosh bash- Haria raghle (Quiet child, Haria has come!”. He continued adding more drama, “One day the Maharaja asked him to accompany him to a hunt. As they entered the forest, suddenly a lion jumped on him and threw him on the ground. Hari Singh was completely caught unaware and did not even have the opportunity to draw his sword. But he got hold of the jaw of the lion and with great force flung the lion away, and withdrawing his sword, with one blow severed the lion's head.”

With an expression of all-praise for the Hari Singh, he continued, “The Maharaja and the other courtiers were extraordinarily amazed at this feat. From that day onwards Hari Singh was given the appellation of ‘Nalwa’ by the Maharaja, who acknowledged that Hari Singh had killed the lion similar to the way, King Nall used to hunt.”

Gibran Valley

After the much inspired story, I was on my way to Gibran Valley. I expected it to be a replica of the Betaab Valley.

The path was magically transforming itself into a hi-fantasy movie like Narnia; the sun was shining bright, peeping through the pine trees. The narrow brown path had different shades of green grass covered with white, yellow and light purple flowers.

The perfect climax to this ecstasy is the Gibran Valley.

The vastness of the meadow surrounded with thick pine trees at one end, and the deep Himalayan valley on the other. I stood at one point, I don’t know north, south, east or west, but from that point I felt like I was seated on a throne and the world was mine.

I could sit there till dusk, but it was time to return.

Mamaleshwar Temple

On your way back to the car parking area, you can visit the Mamaleshwar Temple.

Mamaleshwar Temple

Mamaleshwar Temple is one of the most ancient temples in Pahalgam, with its history dating back to the 12th century. Built by King Jayasimha on the right bank of River Lidder, this temple is devoted to Lord Shiva. The temple encompasses a pedestal and a Shiva Lingam, with a pure water spring covered by a basin.

Tourist Season

Pahalgam is also associated with the annual Amarnath Yatra Chandanwari (2,895 m), 16 km from Pahalgam, is the starting point of the yatra that takes place every year in the month of Sawan (July to August). I would earnestly request you not to visit at that time of the year unless you plan shell out ridiculous amount of money and deal with loud noise. During that time of the year, the beauty of Pahalgam is desiccated to the commercial tourist world.

Occupation

Almost 80% of Pahalgam earn through tourism. The Amarnath Yatra is the peak season, where they try to fill their kitty for the entire year. The other 20% are involved in farming and animal husbandry.

Places to Stay

There are quite a few cottages and hotels available to stay; choose a hotel/cottage that fits your budget. An on the spot booking allows you to bargain and get a good deal.

Approximate Price: Rs. 1200 to Rs. 4000 per person (depending on the choice of stay), for one night.

Day Trip Pricing

Big Car: Rs. 3200/-

Small Car: Rs. 2800/-

Pony Ride to Gibran Valley and Back: Rs. 1200-1800 (depending on the time you reach and season)

Tip: You do not need a guide if you are on the pony. Make sure you choose a horsemen who likes talking.

Food to Eat

I would recommend vegetarian food. There are many good restaurants in the bazaar, but Daana Paani is one of the best. The ambience and the food is fantastic.

Wednesday, 29 October 2014

Gulmarg–The Switzerland of India

"Stand and look, and hold your breath,
A flower valley upon its breast,
The Himalayas against the light sky blue,
Wondrous with Christmas trees,
An avalanche of snow, pinnacles of frozen rain,
Shades of green, and twisted rivers,
O, you take my breath away, beautiful Gulmarg!"

- Khushnum Y. Mistry

What I find most difficult is to find the right adjectives for the hill stations of Kashmir. Gulmarg, popularly known as mini-Switzerland (mostly, because many winter sports are played there), is one of the most visited destination in Kashmir. The bright green meadows, tall Christmassy trees and snowcapped mountains paint a picture of happiness in your mind and soul. If you love and appreciate nature, your eyes will twinkle by the mere sight and your mind will be lost in the beauty and serenity of this hillstation.

Reaching Gulmarg

It takes around 2-3 hours to reach Gulmarg from Srinagar city. I would recommend leaving early to avoid traffic and tourists. On the way you will pass Lal Chowk, which is the hustling bustling market of Srinagar city. Before approaching, you will pass another hillstation, Tanmarg which is rarely visited by tourists or travellers. If you are visiting when there is snow, it is advisable to rent clothes to avoid your clothes getting dirty.

Panorama from Gulmarg View Point
(Just before entering Gulmarg)

The main peak in Gulmarg is Affarwat which is 4143m. Once you reach there you need to park your vehicle. Note that if you have planned an overnight stay in Gulmarg, you can take your vehicle to the hotel directly.

Sightseeing in Gulmarg

Gulmarg is a beautiful hill station that can be explored on foot. The changing weather, the people, the snowy landscape and then a dash of green meadows, Gulmarg seems like paradise. I have travelled half of India, been to many places abroad but the beauty of Gulmarg; the tall Himalayan snow mountains are a sight to sore eyes.

Tip: If you have planned Gulmarg as a day-return trip, I would suggest hiring a pony to explore the hill station.

Golf Course/Ice Hockey Rink:

In winter Gulmarg’s natural slopes and inclines, makes it India’s premier skiing resort; also offering winter sports like golf, ice hockey and heliskiing. I was intrigued and proud that Gulmarg has the world’s highest golf course. It is 18 holed & has a par of 72.

World's Highest Golf Course

Ice Hockey Rink

On your way to Khilanmarg, you will pass the High Altitude Warfare School and the Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering.

High Altitude Warfare School
To know more, click http://www.indianmemoryproject.com/tag/high-altitude-warfare-school/

Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering
To know more, click http://iismgulmarg.com/

Gondola

Image copied from http://gulmarggondola.com/about_gondola.php

The Gondola ride is 2 km to 3 km from the parking area (walking distance). Sadly, the Gondola was not operational when I visited Gulmarg, albeit I found out all the information for my blog readers. Collect your tickets from Gondola station; there are two levels: Gulmarg to Kungdoor and Kungdoor to Aparwath.

To know more or pre-book, visit http://gulmarggondola.com/gondola_tickets.php

Khilanmarg:

The path to Khilanmarg from the Gondola gate is charismatic. I felt like I was swallowed up by a jungle of Christmas trees, carpeted with snow.

Small twigs, branches and colourful flowers spruced between the snow carpet, to drive away the boredom of white.

Along its length, the icy waterfall ran vigorously down the slopes, like a herd of white horses running towards a certain point.

You could just sit there and watch the broken log getting drenched at the bottom but holding its place, so that the humans could cross the currents of the cold icy waterfall.

When you reach the main Khilanmarg point, you will be approached by Ski instructors claiming to teach you skiing in 10 minutes (it’s impossible, unless you have done it before and polishing your skills), and after much convincing will ask you to pay some amount to click pictures wearing the equipment to deceive your friends (yes, and you will be surprised that it works; society and the show-sha *argh*) on Facebook or Watsapp.

Prepping the Sledge before Zorbing

You will also be approached by sledge rides (no, not by a Santa Clause). Be sure to bargain to get a good deal. Also, only opt for a sledge ride if there is snow (I sloped on snow and muck which was not much fun). After the much exhilarating sledge ride, the ponies wait for you at the bottom of the Khilanmarg slope.

Strawberry Farm

Now, it’s time to complete the circuit, so you start to retreat from a different point. While, coming back you can see the strawberry farm (the locals, call it strawberry garden). During season time, that is, around November-December, you can pay a sum of Rs. 20/- and taste the local produce as much as you like (but you cannot carry them in a bag or stock for later).

Children’s Park

The children’s park is like a huge meadow with a few small streams and foot bridges. It’s just overall captivating to an eye of a metro city breed. A park that looks like a meadow, with such scenic beauty is beyond imagination for any Mumbaikar.

Shiv Mandir

For Hindu devotees, a Shiv Mandir built in 1915 by Maharaja Hari Singh’s wife, stands tall on a hillock, in the main Bazaar (or parking area). For all the Bollywood fans, this is the same temple where the song “Jai, jai shiv Shankar, kaanta lage na kankar” starring Rajesh Khanna and Mumtaz was picturised.

Tourism in Gulmarg

O' Let This Beauty Stay

Gulmarg is a natural beauty that doesn’t need to adopt the ways of the tourist or to attract them. But there should be a number of cars that should be allowed to enter Gulmarg. Over the years, because of tourists and the increasing number of cars (with no PUC done or no strict law enforced on tourists cars to make sure they have their PUC) there has been a rapid change in the weather conditions; the snow is melting rather quickly, which has a great impact on the ecosystem in Kashmir.

It’s quite depressing to see tourists littering such a beautiful heavenly place. Read more: http://www.greaterkashmir.com/news/2014/May/20/garbage-is-added-attraction-at-gulmarg--11.asp

Keep it Clean, Keep it Green

Lastly, the quoting of increased prices during season time for Pony rides, Gondola tickets, snow wear, sledge rides and skiing equipment does pinch the pocket of a traveller. It feels like they judge you on appearance and quote an amount that they think you will cough up.

The tourism in Gulmarg should be supervised and strict penalties should be applied by the government to ensure that the place stays clean and beautiful for the generations to come.