The Perfect Storm

“It is not light that we need, but fire; it is not the gentle shower, but thunder. We need the storm, the whirlwind, and the earthquake.” 

-Frederick Douglass 

Humans don’t seem to understand the power of nature. We forget that we are small ant like creatures, when compared to the Universe, and yet we claim to be the Dominant. Humans think that they can become the new architects of the world; build a few a dams here, construct new factories to make some deadly products (in the name of development), consume, consume and consume more, deplete the earth of all its natural elements ,and think nature will cope. I think a perfect storm is just the right way to awaken human sensibilities (from God's point of view).

For most, a thunder storms could be a scary thing, but I enjoy God’s wrath. I find solace in thundering noises, rough winds and the magical colours nature paints on its canvas; the Universe. If you ever ask a Kashmiri about the weather there, you would get an analogous response, “Kashmir ka mausam aur biwi ka mood koi predict nahi kar sakta” (The weather of Kashmir and a wife’s mood can never be predicted). And I  actually realized the statement after I witnessed the perfect storm one evening in Srinagar.
 

I was sitting on the stairs of my houseboat after a nice warm bath and a long day sipping Kahwa and eating pakodas when the theatricals of the perfect fifteen minutes thunderstorm started.

The Calm Before the Storm

Rough Winds and a Drizzle - The Storm Approaches

 

The Perfect Thunderstorm - The dark clouds get closer to envelop the sun

Rain

Ray of Sunshine

Clouds and Rain Go Away

Pretense-Just Another Evening

Open Skies and Sunset

The End of Day

The Dawn of Night

 

Srinagar City Tour - Part 2

Hazratbal Shrine



Entrance Hazratbal Shrine

This shrine is a dargah (i.e. a praying place for the Muslims) to offer prayers to Allah. The shrine has to sections, a praying area for the men and the women.

The shrine has a huge garden for the kids to play, and is located at the banks of the Nigeen Lake. You will find a number of sweet shops outside the dargah.

Intricate Marble Work - Hazratbal Shrine

Distance: 30 minutes from Shalimar Bagh
Entry fee: Free

Nigeen Lake and Koh-e-Maran or Hara Parbat

Nigeen Lake

 Before reaching old Srinagar, you will pass Nigeen Lake. You can stop the car on the bridge to enjoy the beauty of the serendipitous lake. The lake is not as commercialized as Dal Lake and has a serene beauty.

Sunset at Nigeen Lake

After passing Nigeen lake, we passed the Koh-e-maran fort before entering the old city of Srinagar. The fort was constructed by Akbar who planned to make it a capital but it never came through.

Koh-e-Maran or Hara Parbat Fort

The brown colour of the fort, against the sun setting, is indeed a breathtaking view. Sadly, tourists are not allowed to visit the fort, so we could only appreciate its beauty from the outside.

To read more about the Koh-e-Maran Fort click on http://www.thekashmirwalla.com/2012/09/the-hari-parbat-fort/#.VEZTQzFxnIU

Distance: 15-20 minutes from Shalimar Bagh

Old Srinagar City

City Architecture

The old city has almost the same chaotic feel of old Delhi or the bylanes of Mumbai. Old Srinagar city has a dense population of Muslims, and it’s exhibited in the city’s architecture (inspired from the old Mughal culture). Most of the houses and buildings are made of bricks with glass windows. The city literally shines during the day.

Distance: 15 minutes from Koh-e-Maran Fort

Jama Masjid

Door Leading to the Jama Masjid

 

 

History of Jama Masjid

The Jama Masjid stands tall in the chaotic juncture of the old Srinagar city. It can occupy more than 5000 worshipers.

 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 











As you enter the first gate of the Masjid, you will see a huge prayer room with almost a 1000 carpets.
 


The Prayer Room

As you enter the second gate, you will see a huge fountain in the middle of a huge garden. This fountain is used for wazu (a practice of washing hands and legs before praying).  
 


Fountain for Wazu

Architectural Beauty

 

 

                                               

 
Distance: 10 minutes after entering Old Srinagar

Srinagar city tour is conducted in a circular circuit. At the end of the day, it leaves you with a distinct taste of the culture, history and diversity of the city. Below are few tips/recommendations while taking this tour:
 

·     If you are visiting Shankaracharya Temple, Chasme Shahi, Botanical Gardens, Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh during tourist season, be ready for a lot of rowdy and stupid (yes, I called them STUPID!) people.

·        Do not take this tour on a Friday as it is an important day for prayers for the Muslims. You will be stuck in a traffic jam and also it is almost impossible to enter Hazratbal Shrine and Jama Masjid.

·        Carry a scarf/handkerchief if you are going to visit a religious place.

·        Do not miss the fresh fruit stalls outside tourist attractions.

·        Ditch the tourist season. The best time to visit Kashmir is in the months of April, October and November.

Cost for Transport:

Rs. 2000/- for a small car (Indica)

Rs. 2500/- for a big car (Innova, Sumo)
 

Srinagar City Tour - Part 1

A one day Srinagar city tour is indeed the best way to experience the pulse, beauty and its ever changing frames. Just like a there are two sides to a coin, the new Srinagar is the commercial beauty and old Srinagar is filled with the richness of the Mughal empire history and ancient architecture. I would strongly advise you to start the city tour by 8 am to avoid traffic.


The Quieter Side of Dal Lake

 

Shankaracharya Temple

The ancient Sankaracharya Temple, also known as the Jyesteswara Temple, is found on top of the hill Takht-i-Sulaiman or Throne of Solomon, at the height of 350m. Overlooking the lake, Adi Shankaracharya (788-820AC) lived, meditated and did Tapas (penance) here to review Hinduism which had been eclipsed by Buddhism.

To read more, click on http://www.mukti4u2.dk/Srinagar_Shankaracharya_Temple.htm

City View from Shankaracharya Temple

The car takes you only up to a certain point, after which you need to climb 40 stairs to enter the temple premises. 
 

This image is taken from postcards and copied from
http://www.mukti4u2.dk/Srinagar_Shankaracharya_Temple.htm

The temple is completely built of stone, and as the sun’s ray hit, it shines like granite. A huge Shivling (a black stone considered to be a Hindu deity) with a huge bronze snake encircling it is grounded in the middle of this temple. At a time, this temple can only occupy 6 people and a pujari (priest).

During the olden times, this place would be the best place to meditate, pray or simply enjoy the beauty of the city. Photography is not allowed here, so leave your cameras and cell phones in the car or else you will need to deposit them outside the temple!

Distance: 20 minutes from Dal Lake, Gate No. 1
Entry Fee: Free

Chasme Shahi

Chasme Shahi

‘Chasme’ in Kashmiri means ‘water’ and ‘Shahi’ means ‘royal’ which is a great way of describing one of the oldest hot water spring found in Srinagar. On entering the Chasme Shahi, you are welcomed to a beautiful lawn with colourful flowers.

Fountains and Gardens in Chasme Shahi

In the centre of this garden, is a small stone funnel from where the hot water springs flow. Hot water springs are rich in chlorides that cure ailments like rheumatism, post and pre-operative surgeries and problems with the central nervous system. 

The Royal Water Tomb

Hot Water Spring

Chasmr Shahi

Distance: 20 minutes from Chasme Shahi

Entry fee: Rs. 10/-

Botanical Garden

Although, the botanical garden is beautiful with lots of flowers and custom shaped trees, it can be given a miss!

Distance: 5 minutes from Chasme Shahi

Entry Fee: Rs. 10/-

Pari Mahal 

Most tourists call it Pari Mahal, whereas the locals call it ‘Peer Mahal’. This palace could definitely be passed off as a residing abode for fairies.

The gardens were established by Prince Dara Shikoh in the mid-1600s on the ruins of a Buddhist monastery. Dara, the son of Emperor Shah Jahan, followed the Qadiri order of Sufi Islam and made the garden for his tutor. It was further used as an observatory, useful for teaching astrology and astronomy.

There are six ascending terraces at Pari Mahal, which display unique architectural elements of the mid-seventeenth century. 

Distance: 20 minutes from the Botanical Gardens

Entry fee: Rs. 10/-

Nishat Bagh

Nishat Bagh is a very average garden for the kids to play and can be definitely skipped. 

Shalimar Bagh 

Shalimar Bagh is considered to be the finest Mughal-style hill garden and was made by the Mughal Emperor Jahangir in 1619 for his beloved wife, Nurjahan. The Shalimar Bagh was built not merely as garden but also served as the summer residence of the Mughals.

The water canals and fountains are lined up parallel bordered with beautiful scented flowers and old architecture transports you to the Mughal era.  

There are four main areas or shamianas or terraces, the lower one is connected to the road. The second is considered to be the public garden also called as the Hall of the Public Audience. This area still has a small black marble throne.

The Second Area also called Hall of the Public

Black Marble Stone

The third area is wider with two shallow terraces with the Hall of Private Audience.

View from the Hall of the Private Audience

                     

The fourth terrace area is the Zenana Garden that was reserved for the royal ladies of the court with small guard-rooms on the entrance. This part of the garden is definitely the most beautiful.

The Shalimar Bagh forms an ideal picture perfect sight; the water dancing, the flowers adding vibrancy to the already  cheerful atmosphere and your mind just soaking it all in!

Distance: 20 minutes from the Botanical Gardens

Entry fee: Rs. 15/-

Continue to Srinagar City Tour - Part 2...